Peter's Note July 2022

Single Vineyard Wines

There is much to link the output from a single vineyard like Breaky Bottom, year on year – a characteristic taste, a common thread; the same terroir and grape varieties, the same winemaker. And yet every vintage from a single vineyard that only uses grapes from its own estate is essentially a one-off expression of each season.  A reflection of a particular weather pattern, the variable temperatures and rainfall of that year, never to be duplicated.  

My good friend Oz Clarke, wine guru extraordinaire with a phenomenal palate and a superb memory is for me the ‘Sherlock Holmes’ of wine tasting, the master wine-detective. I still recall his first visit to Breaky Bottom, 40 plus years ago, our enjoyment of wines (and whisky!), and after maybe nine hours of craic the sharing of other common interests, of fine poetry and prose, and great music.  I recall sometime after our meeting he phoned me, describing his attendance at a blind tasting of English wines, saying “the moment I tasted your wine, I knew which stable it came from”.

New Wines – 2017 Vintage

Cuvée John Agard, 2017 Chardonnay/Pinot, Gold IEWA, Silver WineGB

Cuvée Grace Nichols, 2017 Seyval Blanc, Silver WineGB

These vintages are dedicated to two brilliant Guyanese poets, dear friends of ours who have lived in Lewes since the 70’s. John and Grace are both great performing poets and playwrights and you will find a veritable feast online to enjoy – the distinctive Patois, the Guyanese Creole intonations, wonderful poems and books, including some for children available in schools. 

John was awarded The Queen’s Gold Medal for Poetry in 2012 and Grace was awarded The Queen’s Gold Medal for Poetry in 2021.  A unique double-achievement! 

With her interest in painting Grace has been Poet in Residence at the Tate Gallery – her works include ‘I is a Long-Memoried Woman’ (1983) – ‘Picasso, I want my face back’ (2009).

John was awarded the Book Trust's Lifetime Achievement Award in November 2021. Give him a stage and a capacity auditorium, and sit back… or sometimes at the edge of your seat!

Try ‘Half-Cast’ and ‘Checking Out Me History’, just two poems from an amazing repertoire.

Barn Owl News

Pressures of work have not allowed us to sit outside in the cool of the evening with a glass of gin-and-tonic at dusk, quietly awaiting the Barn Owls. But last week, unannounced, a team of six people appeared from the South Downs National Park. Headed by Jan Knowlson, their task is to visit all known Barn Owl sites, recording any activity. The UK Barn Owl population has been falling rapidly in recent years, so their work is of great importance. We were all delighted to find in the nest box two quite mature nestlings; each was weighed, sexed and ringed before returning them to their luxury home.

Peter's Note, July 2020

In a moment of reflection I have been remembering special visitors to Breaky Bottom. Two of these have been with me since the early days, Oz Clarke and Stephen Skelton. I first met Oz some forty years ago when he came for an all-day visit; we drank Breaky Bottom and went on to taste innumerable wines from all over the world that were sitting in my wine-rack. He had a chauffeur to drive him home safely. We both clearly liked wine, but found we also shared other interests (while the drinking continued) in the arts, music, literature and sport. I learnt of his original career on the stage and of the many roles he played which included General Peron in Evita. 

Oz was developing a great interest in wine and decided to ‘jump ship’ and focus on this new passion. The BBC Food & Drink programme with Jilly Goolden ran for 20 years and they twice came to film for the series at Breaky Bottom. I remember Oz saying “Peter, you have three out of four” (I had made a very tasty late-harvest wine in 1995) “still, sparkling, and dessert, but no red.” Now of course there are some fine red wines being produced in the UK.

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Oz has just published a new book ‘English Wine – From Still to Sparkling, The Newest New World Wine Country’.  Acknowledging recent progress he insists that the best producers should now be ranked with the cool-climate wines of the world. It’s a great book and will increase the reader’s appreciation of what we have achieved. 

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Stephen Skelton visited us this month. A quiet lunch in the shade of ‘Rémy’s garden’ was a delight, heightened by his gift of a fine bottle of Burgundy, 2008 Chambolle-Musigny – delicious! Stephen helped pick my first harvest in the hot summer of 1976. In the following year he planted his vineyard ‘Spots Farm’ at Tenterden in Kent, now Chapel Down. He made some top still wines for many years, winning the Gore-Browne Trophy with his 1980 Seyval Blanc. He sold up in 1986 but has remained in the forefront of the industry, working with WineGB and writing eight books on UK wine. In 2003 he became a Master of Wine, winning the prestigious Robert Mondavi Trophy. So he knows a lot about wine!   But it’s the friendship I value most - 44 years, with the occasional sparring!  A much valued ‘sympatico’ between us.

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What joy when Dermot Sugrue and his partner Ana also came here a few days ago. Ana, who has just been appointed Winemaker at Plumpton Agricultural College is charged with training the next generation of UK winemakers. I first met Dermot, (an Irishman, originally from Limerick) when he was studying winemaking at Plumpton College in 2005. We sat outside smoking roll-ups and chatting about the world, and I soon realised that we were destined to be mates. He has become a master winemaker but at this first encounter I felt an affinity with the man himself. Now, if I were to sit for 20 minutes with Dermot and a bottle of Paddy’s whiskey expressions like ‘tis fierce awful good‘, ‘ara things are grand’, and ‘go away wi-ya’ become commonplace. I am sometimes referred to as the ‘oul fella’ but my favourite has to be ‘shave a bullock’, a cry of surprised delight!

 Dermot’s journey through winemaking has taken him to the top. He worked at Nyetimber, steering the ship in earlier days when it was just a fledging estate. In 2006 he left to create the outstanding Wiston Estate in West Sussex, owned by the Goring family, and also makes his own Sugrue South Downs fizz, wonderfully named ‘The Trouble with Dreams’.

 

                               

PLEASE NOTE: Partial lockdown continues, so we are not able to offer full tours and tastings, but we are welcoming visitors by appointment who want to come by and collect wine from the vineyard.

Peter's Note, April 2020

On 5th April we gathered the ewes to pen them up prior to lambing. My shepherd friend Stuart Piper is carrying a lamb; the first ewe had lambed that morning in warm sunshine. The second ewe has just produced quads, very rare as shepherds will tell you! My lambing records remind me this same ewe had quads last spring and a beautiful photo of the four lambs appeared in The Times newspaper.

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We are in unknown territory with this terrible coronavirus pandemic. Sadly, we have had to stop all vineyard visits until further notice, but wine sales are still possible through our website. We are offering a free delivery service until the end of May. FedEx continues to collect from Breaky Bottom and usually deliver efficiently within two days. Although wine merchants are mostly closed you will find that many who stock Breaky Bottom are still able to make house-to-house deliveries.

I will try to end these notes with a smile – the weather is beautiful, a reminder to all of the unstoppable spring, perfect for the new-born lambs and all creatures G&S. Over coffee this morning in the sunshine a superb Peacock butterfly alighted on the flint wall beside us, sunbathing…. (he or she turned down my offer of a cuppa!) They and Painted Ladies are long-lived butterflies, 11-12 months from egg to their brief adult life. There are lizards warming themselves in the sun, recharging. And yesterday I saw a stoat make a spectacular dash across the yard, prominent black tail shining roguishly. Restaurants are closed as we must protect ourselves and each other, but my five-starred Michelin multi-birdfeeder is open, and attracts birds in waves and they bring their chums.

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I am so aware that only humans know of the trouble that we are in. 2020, and we travel around the world in whirligig fashion in a way that we never used to. We must find the handbrake…. Our birds continue as ever, either remaining here all the year round or migrating to spend summer or winter in Britain. The swallows have not yet arrived; next week will see them, I hope. Their families have made this journey over millions of years…... perhaps we should learn from them. 

Peter’s Note, August 2019

It’s been another fine and busy summer at Breaky Bottom.  In early August we bottled the 2018 crop. After their first fermentation back in October last year, I’ve been keeping the wines in tank on their lees.  The 2018 harvest was so good that we had enough for three cuvées. Normally I would ferment the pinots together with the Chardonnay in a single tank, but for the first time my modest plantings of Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier produced sufficient yield for me to ferment these together to make a separate Blanc de Noirs.   I was also able to produce a Blanc de Blanc with my Chardonnay, as well as my usual cuvée of 100% Seyval Blanc. At the time of bottling it was wonderful to taste the distinctive flavours of each of these wines.

The grapes are looking good, and I expect to harvest in mid to late October.  Who knows whether the crop will be as great as last year’s…

I’m delighted to report that Breaky Bottom did exceptionally well in the recent WineGB awards. I entered four wines and won three golds and one silver. 

Furthermore, the three golds all went on to be shortlisted for trophies:

 
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  • 2011 Cuvée Oliver Minkley received the 'Dudley Quirk' trophy awarded to the Best Non-Classic Blend. 

  • 2009 Cuvée Gerard Hoffnung was shortlisted for the Best Prestige Cuvée.

  • 2014 Cuvée Peter Christiansen was shortlisted for the Best Blanc de Blanc.

All this happened at the WineGB Trade Fair on 4th September at the RHS Lindley Hall in London.

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On the same day Harpers Wine also announced the results for their Harpers Stars competition, and my 2010 Cuvée Reynolds Stone won 5 Stars for Best Taste. This is judged solely by sommeliers, those working at the sharp end in hotels and restaurants.

Breaky Bottom Winery Notes - December 2015

As a winemaker I take pleasure in the fact that every season is different and this year has been no exception. The national forecast was for a record crop with several new vineyards coming on tap for the first time. But the weather was difficult and the slow spring and early part of the summer set the flowering back well into July. The rest of the growing season was for the most-part cool and overcast and sunshine was scarce. The harvest didn't start until 24th October, finishing only on 9th November. A challenging year, but worth the wait to finally achieve a good level of ripeness, beautifully captured by our photographer friend Axel Hesslenberg.

The ever-increasing acreage of vines being planted in the UK continues. Last week it was announced that the Champagne house Taittinger has acquired some land in Kent and will be planting around 100 acres in 2017. This is of great significance; an endorsement from the 'top' acknowledging that the quality of the best sparkling wines from the UK are not being overlooked by the Champagne masters. They anticipate their first vintage will be on the market in the early 2020s. I wonder whether they plan to market the wine in the UK or in France!

This year Breaky Bottom has won another Gold Medal in the International Wine Challenge, the 2009 Chardonnay/Pinot. I have named it 'Cuvée Gerard Hoffnung', remembering a great humorist, cartoonist and musician who was a dear friend of the Hall family. Sadly he was only 34 when he died; he would have been 90 this year so appropriate to celebrate a most wonderful man who left such an impression on me as a child. And, by the way, the wine is excellent!

We wish you all a Happy Christmas and New Year

Peter and Christina

Breaky Bottom Winery Notes - December 2014

Breaky Bottom Winery Notes - December 2014

We have had a wonderful season this year, prolonged sunshine through the middle of the summer followed by rain in August to swell the crop to perfection. The vineyards of the UK will all have enjoyed these conditions and it is likely to produce the largest ever national crop.

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2014 has also been special for Breaky Bottom as it marks the 40th year since I planted the vineyard. We have hosted two celebratory dinners; one at Moshi Moshi, Liverpool Street Station, and a large party at Pelham House Hotel in Lewes; both joyful events. Lastly, I am delighted that the Seyval Blanc from 2010 has been awarded a Gold Medal in the International Wine Challenge – a good way to please a wine-maker!

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We wish you a Happy Christmas and best wishes for the New Year.

Peter and Christina

Breaky Bottom Winery Notes - December 2012

It's hard to know how to balance, in a few short sentences, the ups and downs of this year. Maybe I should start with a good up-story...

Welsh slate and peg tiles – the up-story

The beautiful flint barn at Breaky Bottom and the adjacent studios in the yard date from 1827. Natural England has offered us a generous grant to restore the roofs to their original state, of slate and peg tiles respectively. We became eligible for this scheme when we entered into a Higher Level Stewardship agreement wherein we guaranteed to care for the holding in an environmentally sensitive way. The picture below shows the barn already re-roofed and the workshops covered in a blue tarpaulin, awaiting the new clay tiles. You can just make out the Exmoor ponies we use to graze the coarse Tor grass on the steep bank to maintain this HLS status – encouraging the finer chalk species to flourish.

2012 Harvest – the down-story

There is no disguising the fact that the weather this year has been appalling – the worst I have ever known since the establishment of the vineyard 38 years ago. The national grape crop has been badly hit and many growers, including Breaky Bottom, harvested nothing. In our case a small potential crop was lost after an invasion of pheasants from the local shoot. Roll on 2013...

The Queen's Jubilee and Wine Awards 2012

We were delighted when the Chardonnay/Pinot 2008 'Cuvée Princess Colonna' was selected by the Government Hospitality cellars at Lancaster House, St James's, as part of the celebrations for the Queen's jubilee and the Olympic Games.

Awards this year include the 2007 'Cuvée Francine' which won Silver medal in the Decanter World Wine Awards and the 2008 'Cuvée Alexandre Schwatschko' a Bronze medal. The 2008 'Cuvée Princess Colonna' won Silver medal in the International Wine Challenge.

An Ornithological Footnote

I have for years taken pleasure bird watching in and around Breaky Bottom. The great and the small are all my delight. Sit still in one place for a while and one becomes an accepted part of the landscape. Barn owls are now permanent residents in their well-appointed nest box and this year reared two males who can be regularly seen at dusk, quartering across the rough banks in search of unfortunate short-tailed voles. Buzzards are now common-place and I have seen as many as six together this summer, soaring high overhead.

Years ago Lapwings were very common in the Downs at a time when spring sown barley was the main corn crop. Now that winter sown wheat is the norm they have become rare in these parts. The crop is too well grown for the ground-nesting birds to afford them a good look-out and they nest here no more. But this morning, although in deep winter, I had the pleasure of seeing a great skein of 60 or more Lapwings flying quite low over the buildings, as if inspecting the smart new Natural England roofs. They are the first Lapwings I have seen here in 20 years or more. I hope some will return at nesting-time.

Christmas Wines

All the wines mentioned in this Winery Note are available from the vineyard, by Mail-order and phone, or by email for Christmas and the New Year. Local delivery is free - Please call me if you need further advice!

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